All 2020 Grand Seiko Announcements

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2020 was a big year for Grand Seiko as it was the 60th Anniversary since the release of the first Grand Seiko model on December 18th 1960. The 60th is a special anniversary in Japanese culture, with 10 calendar signs and 12 oriental zodiac symbols there are 60 different combinations, so turning 60 is very special, because it means a full cycle has been completed. In addition, with 60 seconds in a minute and 60 minutes in an hour, the connection to timekeeping is also obvious.

While I am sure many of the initial plans to celebrate the brands anniversary had to be significantly altered, Grand Seiko still managed to have a wide range of announcements and introductions.

Throughout the year we saw a total of 61 different models announced, including 36 limited editions, making up approximately 60% of all releases. The limited editions totalled over 14,447 individual units for the year. In addition to new models there were also new calibres added to the line-up. The 9F85 quartz with independent hour hand adjustment, the slim 9RA5 Spring Drive with 5 day power reserve, and the 9SA5 mechanical model with new dual impulse escapement, all were released in multiple models. A new concept watch featuring a constant-force tourbillon movement was also announced, but as this will not be offered for sale it is not included in the model count. Finally, a new club for Grand Seiko customers in the USA was also established.

SBGA - 9R65 Spring Drive

In the SBGA Spring Drive range there were nine different releases and seven of these were limited editions, while the remaining two were exclusives for a specific market.

These started with the SBGA421, a Limited Edition of 390 units, produced for the AJHH (Japanese Association of Haute Horlogerie) that was available through select Grand Seiko dealers in Japan. This is a snowflake dial, with red seconds and power reserve hands, red Spring Drive text, a red ring around the dial, red case back, and golden GS logo. The model was provided on a bracelet and it also came with an additional blue alligator strap. 

The SBGA423 was a limited edition produced for the 20th Anniversary of the JR Nagoya Takashimaya store. This has a golden GS logo, golden seconds hand, and a red power reserve hand. I am unsure of the quantity of units that were produced for this model.

The SBGA425 was a limited edition of 205 units for stores located in the Ginza shopping district in Tokyo. This has a dark brown lions mane pattern dial with pink gold hands and indices.

A couple US exclusive models were released to celebrate Sōkō, the end of Autumn, when the first frost embraces the forest. The SBGA427 has a silver dial and the SBGA429 with a gray dial. The vertical texture on the dial reflects the majestic stalks of the bamboo. The green seconds hand and power reserve indicator epitomize the life of the Arashiyama bamboo forest in Kyoto in its peak season at the end of Autumn. Both models came with a bracelet and a leather strap.

For the Chinese market the SBGA431 was a Limited Edition of 181 units. The model had white lions mane patterned dial and a red seconds hand, housed in a stainless steel case.

An exclusive model for the Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi department store with a limited edition of 23 units was the SBGA432. The model has a black dial, gold bezel, gold hands and gold Arabic numerals.

Two more limited editions for the Chinese market were the SBGA433 and SBGA435. Both models had 222 units and reportedly the serial numbers with a 4 were excluded from the series, so the actual total quantity may be 182 units.. The SBGA433 has a dark blue lions mane dial, gold seconds hand, gold power reserve and gold logo. The SBGA435 has a light blue lions mane dial, pink gold seconds hand and logo. 

SBGC - 9R96 Spring Drive Chronograph

The SBGC237 was a Speciality Selection Limited Edition of 30 units. The model has a silver dial with yellow gold hands and indexes and the 9R96 movement is housed in a stainless steel case with black ceramic tachymeter bezel.

Celebrating Grand Seiko’s 60th Anniversary was the introduction of the SBGC238. The model was a limited edition of 100 units featuring the 9R96 spring drive GMT chronograph movement. It had a pink gold case and chronograph hands, with a Katsu-iro indigo coloured bezel and dial with a lion mane finish.

SBGD - 9R01 Spring Drive Manual Wind

Another 60th Grand Seiko Anniversary model is the SBGD205. This featured a platinum 950 case with a highly decorated white gold dial. The center section of the dial has a diamond dust finish with the GS logo and text carved into the surface, the constellation Leo is also marked on the dial in a clear reference to the Grand Seiko lion. The outer edge of the dial is surrounded with 96 diamonds (2.25 carats) and these are separated by 25 blue sapphires (1.09 carats) for the hour markers. It is very unusual to see gem set Grand Seiko models, but this was an impressive reminder of the company's capabilities that are usually reserved for Credor models.

SBGE - 9R66 Spring Drive GMT

Adding to the Grand Seiko Sport collection three new models were introduced to the line up. These were the black SBGE253, blue SBGE255 and the green SBGE257. Each feature a fixed ceramic bezel that is color matched to the dial. They all have a 9R66 Spring Drive movement with GMT complication housed in a stainless steel case. 

Continuing the 60th Anniversary models was the SBGE261 Wako Ginza Limited Edition model with 60 units produced. The dial is a deep blue color inspired by the flower "Rindo" from the Nagano Prefecture, where the Grand Seiko Spring Drive models are produced. The dial is surrounded by a blue and red rehaut that complements the red GMT hand.

A speciality selection limited edition model was the SBGE262 with a production quantity of 30 units. The watch has a stainless steel case and yellow gold rotating 24 hour bezel. The black and white bezel contrasts well with the silver dial and gold hands and indexes. In addition to the bracelet the watch was also provided with a leather strap.

The USA exclusive SBGE263, was added to the Grand Seiko Sport Collection. This has a brown ceramic bezel, brown patterned dial, golden colored GMT hand, and is housed in a stainless steel case. The model is a Limited Edition of 110 units, commemorating the 10th year that Grand Seiko has been available in the USA market. According to the official site, “the dial pattern represents the radiance of the eagle’s freedom soaring through the vista, swooping downward into valleys below or upward into the boundless spaces above”. This model will ship in January 2021.


Another Limited Edition was the SBGE265 produced for the Yokohama Takashimaya department store with just 30 units available. This model has a blue rotating bezel that matches the blue GMT hand. The blue and white rehaut connects the bezel to the white lions mane dial. This model was provided with both a bracelet and a silicone strap.

Completing the 9R66 Spring Drive GMT releases for the year was the SBGE267 produced for the Asian distributor Thong Sia. This Limited Edition of 140 units was available in Hong Kong, Singapore, Malaysia, Brunei, and Macau. It had a brown rotating 24 hour bezel, brown sunburst dial with yellow gold hands and indices and is housed in a stainless steel case.

SBGH - 9S85 Hi-Beat Automatic

Two new additions to the Grand Seiko Heritage Collection were the SBGH277 and SBGH279. Both feature the 44GS inspired case and 9S85 hi-beat movement, with either a silver (SBGH277) or gray (SBGH279) dial.

The SBGH281 utilized the 60th Anniversary color scheme of blue and red, and had a gold GS logo on the dial. This limited edition of 1500 units earned the nickname of “Superman” from fans due to the color scheme.

A special model introduced in 2020 was the SBGH283. This model is available exclusively from the newly renovated Shizukuishi Watch Studio that was opened this year. The model has a green pinstriped dial representing the lush green foliage that surrounds the studio. A display back shows a gold plated rotor with the inscription “Shizukuishi Limited” in English. I personally prefer the rotors with Japanese text inscriptions as used on the previous Shizukuishi exclusive models. The studio is housed in a newly constructed building designed by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma and is the only location where visitors are able to purchase this watch model.

SBGJ - 9S86 Hi-Beat Automatic

A pair of new models were added to the Grand Seiko Sports Collection with the SBGJ237 and SBGJ239. Both models have rotating 24 hour lumed bezels that can be used to display a third time zone, in addition to the GMT hand and regular timekeeping mode. The SBGJ237 is provided with a bracelet and blue dial, while the SBGJ239 has a green dial and leather strap.

The green dialled models continued with the SBGJ241, a limited edition of 700 units available through Grand Seiko Boutiques. The dial is a representation of the green leaves foliage reflected on traditional Japanese wooden floors. This dial pattern is similar to the SBGH269 that was introduced last year.

The final Hi-Beat GMT model was another green dial in the SBGJ247 Wako Limited Edition, with 60 units available. This one has a green dial with a radial pattern that is similar to the dial pattern found on the Godzilla SBGA405 from 2019. This Wako exclusive was provided with a leather strap and bracelet, with the green dial drawing inspiration from the "Nambu Akamatsu" tree from Iwate prefecture.

SBGK - 9S63 Mechanical Manual

To celebrate the opening of the new Grand Seiko Boutique at the Paris Place Vendôme, two new models were added to the Elegance Collection. These were the SBGK011 in platinum and the SBGK013 in pink gold. Both feature a dial pattern “Pavés Parisiens'' that represents the cobblestone streets of Paris. Each model was a limited edition of 10 units and were available exclusively from the Paris Boutique.

SBGM - 9S66 Mechanical Automatic GMT

There were a couple of new dealer exclusive mechanical GMT models with the SBGM239 a Hodinkee limited edition of 500 units, and the SBGM241 Watches of Switzerland special edition. The SBGM239 has a matte blue dial with gray accents, while the SBGM241 has a green Mount Iwate pattern dial with golden details. The SBGM241 was given the official nickname of Tōgè (峠) which is Japanese for mountain pass.

SBGN - 9F86 Quartz GMT

Two new regular additions to the Grand Seiko Heritage Collection were the SBGN011 and SBGN013. These models both feature the 9F86 calibre with a GMT complication and independent hour hand setting. The SBGN011 has a champagne dial and blue GMT hand, the SBGN013 has a black dial and red GMT hand.

The 9F86 calibre was also used on a couple of retailer specific limited editions this year with the SBGN015 and SBGN017. The first was produced exclusively for the SOGO Chiba department store and had a production run of 55 units. This has a light blue sunburst dial, blue seconds hand, blue GMT hand tip, the two colored rehaut from the SBGN005, all housed in a stainless steel case with a fixed 24 hour bezel.

The second retailer exclusive 9F86 model was produced for the Isetan Shinjuku store as the SBGN017. This limited edition of 56 units features a white dial, red GMT hand, and blue white rehaut. The dial has a distinctive pattern, that is reminiscent of the Mount Iwate dial pattern used on some Shizuku-ishi models, but being a quartz model the SBGN017 is produced at Shiojiri. Consequently the dial texture is described as the bark of a large tree, and on closer inspection you can clearly see this is different from the more familiar Iwate dial pattern.

SBGP - 9F85 Quartz

A new series of models was introduced in 2020 with the new 9F85 calibre release. This calibre is essentially the 9F86 GMT model with the GMT hand removed, allowing the hour hand to be independently set without hacking the watch. This allows the movement to remain running when switching between time zones or daylight savings time. The first three models were the SBGP001 with a champagne dial, SBGP003 with black dial, and SBGP005 with a blue dial. All models are regular additions to the Grand Seiko Heritage Collection.

Celebrating the 60th Anniversary of Grand Seiko was the SBGP007, a limited edition model with 2500 pieces. The model featured the distinctive colors of the anniversary editions with a blue dial and red seconds hand. The dial also has a five pointed gold star indicating that the 9F85 movement has been specially regulated to an accuracy of ±5 seconds a year compared to the ±10 seconds annual rate for standard Grand Seiko quartz models.

Three more regular production models were added to the Grand Seiko Heritage Collection with the champagne dialled SBGN009, black dialled SBGP011, and blue dialled SBGP013. 

A second 60th Anniversary model featuring the 9F85 calibre was added to the Grand Seiko Sport Collection with the SBGP015. This model has a blue bezel, blue dial, and red seconds hand, and was a limited edition of 2000 units.

SBGR - 9S65 Mechanical Automatic

The only addition to the SBGR series of models this year was the SBGR321 60th Anniversary release. This was a limited edition of 2500 units and has the anniversary colors with a blue dial and red seconds hand. The display case back has a red ring surrounding the blue titanium rotor that is colored via an anodic oxidation process.

SBGW - 9S64 Mechanical Manual

As part of the celebration of the 60th Anniversary of the first Grand Seiko model, three new models were added to the Elegance Collection. These are ongoing models and are standard non-limited editions that are all modern reinterpretations of the original first Grand Seiko model. The SBGW257 has a platinum 950 case, the SBGW258 has a yellow gold case, and the SBGW259 has a brilliant hard titanium case with a blue dial.

Announced in November the SBGW260 is a version of the “First” in pink gold with a 9S64 hand wound movement. This model is a limited edition of 350 units that will be released in January 2021 to commemorate the 140th Anniversary of the founding of Seiko. Through the display back you can see a golden plate engraved with the original Seikosha S trademark that was registered in 1900.

The SBGW262 is a regular production model in the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection with a yellow gold case. The distinctive feature of the model is an Urushi dial using Joboji lacquer from Iwate Prefecture, with markers created by Kaga Maki-e Urushi master Isshu Tamura. The 3, 6, 9, 12 numerals and GS logo are golden and the other hour markers are a silver color. 

Two more 60th Anniversary models from Shizukuishi were released, both featuring the 9S64 manual wind movement. The first is the SBGW263, a platinum 950 cased watch with engraved dial and hands. The 18k white gold hands, dial markers, Grand Seiko logo and star mark are all produced by master engraver Kiyoshi Terui and his small team who engrave each element by hand. This is a limited edition of 20 units.

Also from Shizukuishi is the SBGW264, a 60th Anniversary limited edition of 120 units. This has a green machine engraved dial that has a fine pattern inspired by the white birch trees that surround the studio where it was produced. As the viewing angle changes, the dial shimmers in green and white, and this is housed in an 18K pink gold case.

SBGX - 9F61 Quartz

A pair of models with high magnetic resistance were introduced with the white dialled SBGX341 and the black dialled SBGX343. Both models have a 9F61 quartz calibre, are rated at 40,000 A/m magnetic resistance, and are the first Grand Seiko models to utilize two colors of lume (blue and green).

SBGY - 9R31 Spring Drive Manual

The SBGY005 was a Takashimaya Osaka Limited Edition of 22 units. The model has a dial inspired by an ice wall, and is powered by the 9R31 Spring Drive calibre that features the power reserve on the rear and is finished by the Shinshu Watch Studio. 

SBGZ - 9R02 Spring Drive Manual

In November the SBGZ005 was announced to commemorate the 160th Anniversary of the birth of Seiko’s founder Kintaro Hattori. The watch has a Platinum 950 case and is powered by the 9R02 Spring Drive movement from the Micro Artist Studio. The dial has a very unusual pattern that is created by a series of parallel lines that are divided into twelve different segments. The 8 pointed star on the dial indicates that the indexes are solid white gold. This model is a limited edition of 50 units and will be available in January 2021.

SLGA - 9RA5 Spring Drive Automatic

Grand Seiko introduced a new five day Spring Drive calibre, the 9RA5, with the release of the SLGA001. This model is a limited edition of 700 units commemorating the 60th Anniversary of Grand Seiko. It is a 600m diver with titanium case, and is provided with both a bracelet and a rubber strap. A second diver model featuring the 9RA5 calibre was the SLGA003. This model was a limited edition of 60 units produced for Grand Seiko boutiques. It has a green dial, golden seconds hand, golden markers, and golden rehaut.

SLGH - 9SA5 Hi-Beat Automatic

Another new movement introduced this year was the 9SA5. This calibre is an automatic 36,000 bph hi-beat design, with an 80 hour power reserve and a new dual impulse escapement. The movement is the first Grand Seiko to feature a free sprung balance and it has a horizontal gear train, allowing the movement to be significantly thinner than the current hi-beat automatic calibres. The new movement was introduced in the SLGH002 60th Anniversary model, a limited edition of 100 units. The watch was housed in an 18K yellow gold case and the dial featured a new distinctive design of gold hands and indices. 

The second watch to utilize the 9SA5 calibre was the SLGH003. This model had a stainless steel case, blue dial and red seconds hand, using the color scheme for the Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary. This was also a limited edition model with 1000 units produced.

STGK - 9S27 Mechanical Automatic

There was only a single ladies model Grand Seiko released this year with the STGK015. This was a Limited Edition of 300 units to commemorate the 60th Anniversary of Grand Seiko. It has a blue mother of pearl dial and 45 diamonds on the dial and set into the bezel. The watch is powered by the 9S27 automatic movement that provides a 50 hour power reserve. 

T0 Concept

Finally Grand Seiko also announced the concept T0 (t-zero) constant force tourbillon. The movement incorporates a tourbillon and a fully integrated constant-force mechanism on the same axis. The constant-force mechanism provides even energy distribution to the escapement regardless of how much the mainspring is wound, and the tourbillon eliminates the error in precision caused by gravity by incorporating the escapement parts and balance in a rotating carriage. The tourbillon carriage also provides a deadbeat seconds functionality as indicated by the movement of the tourbillon cage arms. The movement has an accuracy rating of ±0.5 seconds per day. The movement is a concept piece, and while an example was produced and actually worn by the designer for around a year there is currently no plans to bring this calibre into production. The T0 watch can be seen on display at the newly opened Shizukuishi watch studio in Japan.

GS9 Club

In addition to new models, movements and concepts the other big announcement for 2020 was the expansion of the GS9 Club to the USA market. This was announced towards the end of the year and is open to all customers who have purchased a Grand Seiko from an authorized US dealer since the brand became independent on 23rd March 2017. Members have access to exclusive articles, special gifts, a digital magazine and special events. The GS9 Club in Japan has held some amazing events in the past for members and if these are even partially replicated in the US I am sure they will be fantastic. If you qualify to join there is no charge and I would strongly recommend becoming a member. Hopefully we will see the GS9 Club expanded to additional countries in the future.

I wrote a short article on the launch - GS9 Club Launches in USA, and the official club website can be accessed at grandseikogs9club.com

Conclusion

With a number of new calibres and series released this year there were a couple of obvious changes to the naming of items. The new high end calibres are now including A in the name, for example the new Spring Drive was the 9RA5 and the new Hi-Beat Automatic was the 9SA5. The series numbers have also grown to move to the SLGx naming instead of the traditional SBGx name for the mens models. This was necessitated as all of the previous series lettering had been utilized, with the exception of I O Q U that were presumably skipped to avoid confusion with numbering or other letters. 

2020 was a big year for Grand Seiko and unfortunately the celebrations for the brands 60th Anniversary were impacted by global events. Despite these hurdles there were over sixty new models released. There were new movements from all the different technology types, with the introduction of the 9F85 quartz, 9SA5 mechanical and 9RA5 Spring Drive calibres. The expansion of the GS9 Club to the United States also marked the The Grand Seiko brands continued growth in popularity and recognition in the global market and this is a trend we can expect to continue into the future. I look forward to seeing what Grand Seiko will bring to the table in 2021.